Our Modest Road Trip to the UAE continues on the humbler side of the Hajar Mountains, i.e. Oman. We imagined a scenic ride along the beach, watching the waves crash into the coast; only to discover that you can’t see the coast from the road that extends from the border, Khatmat Malahah, down towards Muscat. Oops! No frets though, we eventually worked the beach into our adventure even though it was too cold for swimming!

Day 5

After crossing into Oman in the early afternoon, we made plans to stop at the beach in Sohar for some refreshments and sand play. As we turned into Sohar, we wondered if we would find any establishments open since it was that opportune napping/siesta time between the noon and afternoon prayer. We missed our turn to the municipal park to access the beach and found a parking lot to turn around just pass Sohar Beach Resort. To our surprise we saw a sign: Africa Coffeehouse and Restaurant.

Very curious sign (especially considering the weight of bearing an entire continent on your eatery’s name). Our patient tummies have become accustomed to the restraint of verifying two facts before preparing to eat:

1. Is it open?

2. Anything vegan on the menu?

I entered the coffeehouse/restaurant for the reconnaissance mission and was greeted by a friendly, South Asian waitress. I was pleased to see a vegetarian section on the menu but still struggling to make the “Africa” connection until I realized that the offerings were Zanzibari/Swahili food. Yes, we’re still in Arabia and if you haven’t heard, there are Black people here! Not just from Zanzibar either! There are homegrown Omanis who have as familiar faces as our relatives but have never left the Gulf. This is one of the many features of Oman we love: the diversity in appearance. We rarely “stand out” and that often serves us well.

The menu was appetizing and including a variety of fresh juices. We settled on a “Green Goddess” drink of kiwi, celery, cucumber, green apple, and lemon. Delish! After Lil’ Z mastered her straw-sucking skills with our carrot juice that morning, she was ripe and ready to rip into our drink. We also ordered Maharage (kidney beans in “African” sauce) and Mhogo (cassava in coconut gravy), with a side of Swahili chapatti.

The food was bomb! Our first experience of Swahili food was a huge hit and we savored every last bite. The so-called “African” sauce was a coconut-milk based sauce, similar to that of the cassava dish. The ambiance was artistic and contemporary, with a touch of tradition. We were warmly attended to by all of the servers and welcomed to return anytime.

Oh yes, back to the beach.

We let Lil’ Z play in the sand with her new-found seashell and saw riding horses before continuing on our journey. We drove one more hour to Suwayq where our hosts received us with true Omani hospitality.

Day 6

After a late night, we pushed out early to visit Ayn Al-Kasfa, a hot spring in Rustaq.

I’ve heard of hot springs before but this hot spring was like boil-an-egg hot. Sheesh! I guess you get used to it because children were dipping in and out with no woes. Interestingly, the spring is hot when the weather is cool and cool when the weather is hot!  Subhan’Allah!  The ayn has sheltered stalls for visitors to enjoy, separated by gender.

We took a nap and rustled ourselves to go out once again. This time, we were going “house hopping” to meet and greet friends and relatives of our hosts. Of course, you can’t go to an Omani’s home without being fed, so each of our three stops had meals and refreshments. By the end of the long day, we were tired of eating all of the delicious vegan food, specially prepared for us.

Day 7

On the last day of our tour, our hosts prepared a delicious breakfast, we packed up “Suzi” and headed home, carrying warm memories and the subtle scent of bukhoor (incense) in our clothes. Along the journey we reflected on our “week on the road” and Lil’ Z serenaded us with some of her original renditions, sung to the tune of cute. It was such a joy to not only see new places but to see Lil’ Z’s interactions with new places and people. She’s always initially watchful but her warmth rises and peaks shortly thereafter. When she sees other children, she waves and “talks” to them, looking at them directly in their eyes. She generously offers them their toys and attentively listens to their conversation. She plays with them well and cries when they cry. To see her little spirit and personality blossoming is such a treat, masha’Allah. May Allah protect her big heart and use it to bring comfort to the hearts of others- ameen!

To be honest, “modest” and “UAE” don’t belong in the same sentence.  The oil-rich nation boasts the world’s tallest building, the world’s largest mall, man-made islands, underwater hotels and the like.  So, what business do your favorite Raggamuslims have in UAE?  Well, Urbndervish was graced with a week-long mid-semester break and we thought it was too much time sit around twiddling our thumbs.  We considered heading further north but it’s just too cold.  We considered heading west but we didn’t have enough planning time.  So, we decided to pack up our compact car “Suzi” and hit the road for UAE.  We certainly didn’t want to see all that the Emirates has to offer because, frankly, we’re not that interested in the fanfare but we were curious to visit Sharjah, the religious and cultural center of UAE, Al-Ain, the “uptown” twin sister of Al-Buraimi (in Oman), and to shop at an organic store on the day of their 20% off sale.  Additionally, Urbndervish’s friend invited us to visit his family on the eastern coast of Oman and we thought it was a good time for a leisurely visit.

The Ride

Meet “Suzi”.

The Gear

Adventure hat, outdated Lonely Planet guide, and a borrowed phone with GPS.

­The Plan

-Spend a night in Al Buraimi

-Cross the border via Hafeet and visit Al-Ain

-Spend a few days in Sharjah

-Shop at the Organic Store in Dubai

-Pass Fujairah to exit UAE via Khatmat Malahah

-Drive down the eastern coast of Oman, pass Sohar

-Spend two nights in Suwayq

-Bring it on home 

­Day 1

We left for Al Buraimi just after sunset.  In retrospect, it would’ve been better to leave during the day because long portions of the road towards and following Ibri were unlit.  Two-lane roads after dark aren’t the best for travel and we missed out on the mountain views.  No frets though, many more mountains to come!

Day 2

After spending the night at a hotel in Al Buraimi, we left at about mid-day and entered Al-Ain.  The border crossing was easy.  Instructions and directives weren’t the clearest but you get through eventually.  People give you pieces of paper, only to be taken by the next guy standing by the road.  There’s a bit of stop-and-go, but not bad.  Just make sure you have proof of car ownership and valid insurance that covers your car in UAE, your passports, your residency cards, and some Emirati cash for visas.  You can buy car insurance at the border and if you didn’t exchange any money prior, you’ll be directed to an inconspicuous Indian man wearing shades and greased hair.

Our first impression of Al-Ain was how green it is!  One of its former amirs took “greening” the emirate very seriously and there are trees everywhere!  The pastel-colored homes and large, impressive schools reminded us of South Florida.  We visited the Al-Ain Oasis for about an hour and then hit the road for Sharjah.

En route to Sharjah, we stopped at the Dubai Outlet Mall to buy Lil’ Z a new swimsuit and grab some lunch for her.  We continued to Sharjah and were impressed by just how well-developed it is–with subways and public buses.  Sharjah has lots of beautiful mosques, museums, and tons of sick houses.  The homes were elaborate and imposing in size and design. 

It was time for dinner, so we stopped at an Indian restaurant that we read about via Happy Cow and enjoyed a delicious meal before retiring in Ajman for the night.

Day 3

­After watching the sun rise over Ajman, we sought out some fresh fruits and carrot juice for breakfast and went to visit Sharjah’s central souq. 

The souq was gorgeous and inviting, but closed!  It was Friday and just about everything is closed until 4pm.  Lil’ Z had fallen asleep in the car, so we took a few photos of the souq and the nearby Khalid Lagoon.  To pass the time, we drove to University City, where the University of Sharjah is housed alongside other institutions. 

Entering University City is a bit surreal and over-the-top.  We were hoping to find the library open but our plot was foiled once again.  As we approached the golden hour of 4pm, we visited the Souq Al-Arsa and, later, the Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization.  

The Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization is inviting, well-designed, and comprehensively curated.  It held Islamic artifacts, mosque models, interactive touch-screens, calligraphy, tiles and textiles, etc.  It was reminiscent of Kuala Lumpur’s Islamic Arts Museum.

As the sun set over Sharjah, it was time to eat!  We read about an Ethiopian restaurant online called “Al Habasha Restaurant” and since it had been so long since we ate Ethiopian food, we sought it out and gave it a try. 

The lentil dish and injera was satisfying, as always, but there weren’t any vegetable dishes on the menu, so we ended up with a hot, delicious mess.  The sights, smells, and sounds of Ethiopia only reignited our yearning to visit.  We’re coming, insha’Allah!

­­Day 4

On this brave day, we made our way to Dubai Mall, the world’s largest mall, to shop at the Organic Store.

We made plans to reconnect with a family from Cali currently living in Abu Dhabi.  Their son and Lil’ Z became well-acquainted over a late lunch at P.F. Chang’s. 

In the interludes of eating, we checked out the waterfront, only to realize that we were beholding the world’s tallest building, Burj Khalifah.

Day 5

After a few days of UAE’s opulence and encounters with haughty Emiratis, our skin was starting to itch, so we happily returned to the “sleepy sultanate” that we call home, sweet Oman!  The view of the Hajar Mountains was amazing and Oman welcomed us with open arms (and a routine car search!).

More on the Omani side of our road trip to come.

The idea of a RAW diet swam in and out of our consciousness for years.  “You should be eating this RAW”…”If you soak this, it would give you more nutrients”…”You would feel better if you ate more RAW food”…were the thoughts that would arise, and I would inevitably be smitten by enzyme guilt!  I don’t even know these enzymes but I would feel so bad about heating them and destroying them!  Sigh.

It’s easy to revert to what you know well and know you can cook well, so that kept us hesitant from trying some new raw dishes.  Then, we had to deal with our issues:  RAW food lacks warmth, lacks “umph”, lacks soul!  When we would read about raw foodists eating 30 bananas a day or that their daily menu was green smoothies, fruit salads, and a brazil nut, we were admittedly turned off.  If we are going to do RAW, it has to be sustainable and soulful! 

A new friend in our lives took the time to show me and some others how to make a delicious dish called Carrot Supreme and it was eye-opening.  A RAW dish with flavor and funk!    As for the lack of warmth, we learned that we can make some “very warm” soups  and dips and they would still be considered RAW.  Equipped with a mediocre blender and an equally mediocre food processor, we gave it a whirl (no pun intended!).  No dehydrator, no VitaMix, but still very satisfying.  These are a few highlights from our RAW-ish trial.

 

soaked almonds, walnuts, and dates, topped with chopped apple, coconut shreds, cinnamon, coconut oil, and soy milk (not RAW)

Cucumber and Turnip Salad, chickpea hummus (not RAW), served on red cabbage leaves.

Carrot Supreme, sprouted mung beans, and sliced cucumber, served on cabbage leaves.

Okra, Green Bean and Mushroom Salad 

sunflower seed pate, cucumbers, carrots, and apples, wrapped in seaweed (not RAW)

Cashew Brownies

Lemon Bars 

Our “Week of RAW” went well.  We felt better and experienced improved digestion and elimination.  The challenge, for us, was finding filling, protein-rich, hearty dishes, so that we didn’t have to spend the day grazing.  For me, a typical RAW day started with a fresh fruit smoothie with spirulina and ground flax seeds, a bowl of RAW granola at around mid-day, and a RAW dinner that revolved around a nut/seed based dish or bean sprout based dish.  Three meals is more than enough for us, so this is why our RAW dinners have to be hefty.

As for sustainability, keeping up with the produce purchasing was a challenge.  To eat a completely, 100% RAW diet would mean much more fruits, veggies, seeds, and nuts.  How much more?  Much more than we’re keen on at the moment.  Maybe when we have our dream Raggamuslim farm, our home-grown produce will fuel the RAW-volution, but for now, we’re content with alternating high-RAW with half-RAW throughout the week.  We’re still eating more RAW foods than before and we’re completely sold on making only RAW desserts (because they’re sooo dang good and healthy!).  So, for that reason alone, we consider our week-trial a huge success! 

Some examples of our half-RAW dishes would be a RAW soup with cooked beans added to it or a vegan pizza with RAW cashew cheese ricotta atop.  Even though Lil’ Z was enthusiastic about our RAW trial too, we’re still cooking about half of her diet and a little less than half of our own for now.  So, to summarize:  Give RAW a chance!  If even for a day, stop the slaughter of those helpful enzymes in your food, reinvigorate your palate, and taste how good RAW can get!

Our little RAW-volutionary!

Note:  There are TONS of great RAW recipes online and I don’t think I followed a single one to the “T”.  So, I won’t publish any recipes or links here.  Just search a little until you find something appetizing, give it a try, and let us know how it turns out.  Cool?

From the time we started this blog way back in 2008, we intended to use this medium as a way of documenting our travels, reflections, and life experiences.  Fast forward three plus years and we were still relying on this blog as our journal- not good ole’ fashioned paper and pen but a digital web log with our pictures and documents stored in some unknown location in cyber-ville.  So, we finally decided to archive this work- not all of it (yet) but the most significant posts (to us) minus the recipes and restaurant reviews.  The compilation includes our travel stories, reflections, poetry, and a generous helping of all things related to Lil’ Z! 

If like us, staring at digital screens leaves you visually and mentally taxed, here’s a lovely little blog book that can serve as your companion while riding the bus, a gift to a travel-loving friend, or a nice addition to your coffee table book selection.  It’s condensed, revised, and edited for your reading pleasure.  We hope you like it!

I’ve always loved flight meals- it’s definitely the peak of my flying experience!  The mystery of the meal, the dessert, and single serving packages tucked in your compact tray.  Fortunately, meals are still served on international flights and I completely relived my childhood delight!  Thankfully, we’re no longer relegated to beef or chicken!  We ALWAYS pre-order vegan meals and they are all so varied and different.  Usually a “VEG MEAL” is also vegan.  There’s also an “ASIAN VEG MEAL”, which is Indian food.  It’s always vegetarian but not always vegan.  These days, they also have “JAIN”, “RAW”, “FRUITARIAN”, and other meal options- all you have to do is pre-order!

Well, here are the candidates for this year’s Greenfist Award 2011:  Best Vegan Flight Meal.

Etihad Airways: Muscat to New York: Green Beans with Chick Peas, Saffron Rice, Indian Veggie Stew

Etihad Airways: Muscat to New York: Roasted Potato Wedges and Tomatoes

Etihad Airways: Muscat to New York: Green Tea and Peach Crumble

Air Maroc: New York to Casablanca: Roasted Vegetables over Lettuce

Air Maroc: New York to Casablanca: Stir-Fried Tofu with Basmati Rice

Air Maroc:Casablanca to Dakar: Steamed Vegetables and Potatoes

There were a few other meals on our return to Muscat but I left my camera in New York-  oops! 

So, of the meals displayed above, this year’s Raggamuslim Greenfist Award goes to….

Air Maroc for reppin’ the tofu!  As you can see, some meals are vegan but not very rich in protein.  Air Maroc get’s the green fist because Moroccans rock so hard, that they’re not afraid to put Asia’s finest culinary export on the menu!  Thanks Air Maroc!  Keep up the good work and take it easy on the French rolls! 

Honorable Mention goes to Etihad Airways for offering a hot dessert with green tea.  It was comforting to complete your meal and then have a flight attendant come around on a second tour to ask “Would you like some dessert and tea?”, as if I were a guest in her home!  So sweet!  The peach crumble tasted vegan to me. I wasn’t 100% sure but it was 100% good!

This last year has been beautiful, blessed, and colourful!  Around this time last year, we welcomed home the little light of our lives.  My mom crossed the globe to help with our post-partum recovery.  We adjusted to our new life as parents and fell in love with Allah (God), life, and our little family all over again.  We watched Lil’ Z grow, blossom, and become such an amazing little being. 

We officially settled into Oman as our new home and came to realize that we are in the right place for right now.  We’ve connected with wonderful people who accompany us on this common path of life.  We spent a fun summer vacation, rippin’ and runnin’ all over the place introducing our families to our daughter and reintroducing ourselves as her parents.  We started family traditions that we hope to continue.  We reconnected with dear friends and rediscovered them through their children.  And, to top it all off, Urbndervish’s mom crossed the globe to spend Lil’ Z’s first birthday with us. 

Our hearts are full right about now.  Of course, the year had its fair share of challenges but in the end, we were shaken; not stirred. 

One of the most telling features that distinguish this past year from those previous is how different life is with a child.  Parenting is not for the selfish!  We’ve actually found that the more selfless we are, the more things seem to fall into place.  Some call it “attachment parenting”, I call it grace and “keeping the peace”.  We give a lot to Lil’ Z- not materially but in every other sense of the word.  We give her a lot of love, engagement, and room to foster her independence.  We reserve our “no’s” for matters of importance, even when it’s inconvenient.  We’re liberal with our “yes’s”, even when clean-up will naturally ensue, just for the sake of her learning and experiences.  Walking this path ain’t easy but it sure is fulfilling! 

I can’t help but think of times when I romanticized and idealized the life of a single parent.  When I traveled to Guatemala in 2001, I vividly remember the sight of a woman.  Her long locs were tied high above her head.  She wore a black tank top, comfy cargo pants, and rugged sandals.  She had a huge backpack on her back and a front carrier holding precious cargo- a beautiful, blonde, baby boy.  While my group sat confused, surrendering our passports and destinies to our group leaders, this woman arrived with confidence and surety about her destination.  She passed through customs with ease and headed outdoors to a car awaiting her.  To me, she seemed so strong, so fierce.  She was a mother but she was still backpacking, traveling, and moving around in her own right.  Motherhood didn’t seem to slow her down one bit! 

I used to think that I would be a similar mom- out and about, seeing the world with a child I picked up at some point during my travels.  I wouldn’t have to fear being heart-broken or trusting someone, I would just rely on me, myself, and I.  My child would be as close as my best friend and we would be inseparable.  While many people find themselves parenting solo, I’ve come to realize that is not a preferred route- at least not for me.  To parent as a team has proven to be critical and sustainable to me.  Despite how strong I may perceive myself to be, I’m so glad that I’m not parenting Lil’ Z alone!  I believe that we are more whole parents for Lil’ Z because of how our union nourishes, inspires, and replenishes us.  During our weak moments, we are more than a relief to each other; we are reminders, we are supporters, we are best friends.  We’re glad to have Lil’ Z but we’re glad Lil’ Z has us too.  By no means are we a perfect “us”, but we’re here.  We love Allah, we love our child, and we love each other- that must account for something, huh? 

While many forfeit family for adventure, we’ve learned that family is an adventure and that family enhances adventure.  I used to have a laundry list of things I wanted to do before marriage and children and I’ve learned that neither are a hindrance to things I enjoy and love.  When I reconsidered marriage plans because I wanted to travel overseas, a dear sister reminded me that having good companionship on my journey will make my life easier and help me reach my goals.  She was absolutely right!  May Allah reward her generously- ameen!   We are living, sharing, and growing our dreams as a unit and we’re finding our place together on this vast planet.  While we’re as imperfect as everyone else, we hope that our sincerity in trying to live a life of faith, fidelity, and fruitfulness will be a foundation for Lil’ Z so that she’ll build an even more beautiful future and family one day.

If you find yourself in Kuala Lumpur with only a day to spare, here’s a satisfying itinerary for a little family to enjoy!

Take a stroll to Merdeka (Freedom) Square.

The pursuit and attainment of independence for any country subjected to colonialism is something worth commemorating.  At Merdeka Square, the Union Flag was lowered and the Malay flag was raised.  It’s a beautiful open area with lovely fountains and a pavilion.  In the evenings, folks gather to watch football (soccer) there around the big screen. 

 While you’re there, take out your free visitor map, and navigate your way to…

The Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia.

This museum is amazing and informative.  There are table-sized models of some of the most significant and beautiful mosques throughout the Muslim world.  It felt like we took a global mosque tour in under 15 minutes! 

The museum also has displays showing art and artifacts throughout the Muslim world.  Additionally, you can learn about mosque architecture, the history of the Islamic caliphate and dynasties, and learn about the art of Arabic calligraphy.  If you need a break, you can step outside and sit around the fountain garden or grab a bite to eat at the museum’s restaurant. 

 Once you’re refreshed, head over to…

The Butterfly Park.

Yes, folks, a beautiful garden with much more than butterflies!  In the lush, green environs, you’ll also find fish, frogs, and (my favorite) TURTLES!  After exiting the garden, there are display cases of rare beetles and bugs, and…more butterflies!

After a refreshing nap (important for little travelers and big travelers, alike), pop in to pray or visit one of the local mosques like Masjid India or Masjid Jamek.  

Then take a stroll to Jalan Tun H.S. Lee.  What for? 

Water Lily Vegetarian Restaurant.

It’s time to fill your tank with delicious, halal, vegetarian food.  With pages and pages of veggie dishes and all kinds of meat imitations, it was tough deciding what to order but we eventually settled on Sweet and Sour “Chicken”, “Fish”, Steamed Broccoli and Mushrooms, and Fried Mei Noodles. 

If you’re feeling under the weather or recovering from a cold (as we were), try the Chinese Lemon Honey Drink.  And if you need something to “tie you over” until your meal comes, there’s a great assortment of Chinese steamed buns, stuffed with all kinds of vegan treats.  I had a delicious Red Bean Siu Bao. 

If you’re ready to retire, a great budget hotel, right in the mix of everything on Jalan Masjid India is…

Citin Hotel Masjid Jamek.

The hotel itself is a little tricky to find and the rooms are super-Asian!  Neat, simple, and compact!  The room was adequate and the cost includes buffet breakfast.  The breakfast isn’t continental- it’s as diverse as the guests.  Breakfast might include pancakes, nasi goreng (fried rice), curry dhal, and baked beans- a truly global way to start you day, even if it feels like dinner time.

Another note to be said about Kuala Lumpur is that their public transportation system is well-integrated and efficient.  Big props to KL for that!  You can navigate your way through the city as well as to and from the airport without relying on cabs or tour guides.  Not only is public transpo important for the environment, it’s also great for the pocket, if you’re trying to travel on a modest budget.

Ok, folks, pop quiz!  By a show of hands, who knows where Salalah is?…Anyone? 

After the Eid holiday rush, we made a mad dash for a belated Eid gift trip.  A gift trip?  Does that mean you take a trip to buy gifts?  No, the trip is the gift.  Truth be told, Urbndervish and I are not big “gift givers”, in the sense of bought items wrapped in recyclable packaging.  Every once in a while, we find a gift that we think the other would enjoy and find useful and chalk it up as a “this is for the last few Eids and the coming Eid/anniverary/congratulations/thinking of you” gift.  We vowed to get into this “gifting” business more seriously as Lil’ Z gets older and grasps what festivity means.  But, as Urbndervish and I concluded, we don’t do gift-giving, we do gift-living.  Travel is really our one and only indulgence, if you will.  We might eat out at a modest restaurant, once or twice a month, at most.  We buy new clothes or shoes on an “as needed” basis.  Our favorite outings are free (parks, long walks, etc.).  We can happily eat a homecooked meal of ”beans and greens” every night and live simply but…we love to travel!  We’ve never had much of a travel budget but now that there are a few coins to clank in the veggie bank, we’re taking advantage of the opportunity!  We’re in a great region for travel and we want to exhaust it while we’re here.  Even when we do travel, there are a few basic principles that we always strive to preserve:

• Make a praiseworthy intention for our travel
• Connect with others
• Seek out places of religious and cultural significance
• Explore and appreciate the natural beauty of where we visit and minimize our environmental impact therein
• Observe the “feel” of our destination, the people, the culture, and overall vibe

So, where is Salalah?  In the far south of Oman, in the Dhofar region, you can find a little oasis, a little slice of Caribbean delight, right here in Arabia!  So, if your itching for some greenery or the desert life is taking its toll, hop on down to Salalah where you can visit the reported grave of Prophet Ayyub (Job), peace be upon him; take a walk on the beach; hike amidst rolling green mountains; get frankincense straight from the source; enjoy waterfalls; and sip coconut water while watching a camel go by! 

As we mentioned earlier, our summer travels included a ten-day trip to Senegal and Mauritania. The intent of the trip was to visit my brother and his family in Mauritania but he insisted that we couldn’t take such a long journey and not see “Black Africa”. So, instead of flying into Nouakchott, we flew to Dakar by way of Casablanca. Our late departure from New York resulted in a late connection, which resulted in a very late arrival into Dakar- the last arrival of the night, to be exact. The trip was surprisingly easy and my Mom and I took the opportunity to do a little bit of Maghribi (Moroccan) shopping at the airport. We also met a lovely sister named Khadijah who gave us a few entry tips and taught us how to say “Thank You” in Wolof (“Jere Jief”). While the other travelers zipped through customs, tossing rounded French “oohs” and glotteral utterances, we fumbled pitifully over our immigration cards. Even worse, we didn’t have a local address or local phone number to write on our card. Though French-less, we were fortunate to have an understanding guard who eventually wrote his own address on our cards, just so that we can proceed through.

We took Khadijah’s advice and resisted the persistent porters who offered to wheel our bags to the exit. Upon exiting, we inhaled our first sweet breath of Senegal and looked for my brother who had been waiting all night for our arrival. Wrapped like a Tuareg in white to shield him from the mosquitoes, we only spotted his glistening white smile between the throws of fabric. When my Mom noticed him, she too was grinning ear to ear. We all embraced and Lil’ Z finally met her uncle. We swiftly exchanged money in a shady stall, prayed the Fajr (dawn) prayer and headed to our guest house.

Our guest house hosted the owner’s family, a guard, and several Baye Fall mourides. Just as I heard, the mourids really do don patched clothing, wear long Rasta-like locs and headwraps, and spend lots of time listening to Sufi poetry and music.

Where we stayed had a constant stream of traffic and our hosts made diligent efforts to accommodate our vegan diet. So much so, our first breakfast was a delicious salad with vinaigrette. The salad wasn’t the most varied we had tasted but dang it was good! We must’ve been ravenous! We also had stewed red beans, a spicy rice dish, and lots of steamed veggies during our stay. One consistent theme in our meals was spice! I’m so glad we weren’t feeding Lil’ Z solid foods just yet because it would have been rough.

Our first priority in Dakar was to get our visas for Mauritania and secondly, to visit Goiree Island. Goiree is a former slave port that boasts a shorter proximity to the Americas than its sister ports in Ghana and Gambia. From Downtown Dakar, a 20-minute ferry ride will take you to its shores.

Two-story ferries run throughout the day, transporting Goiree residents, as well as tourists back and forth to the little island. You might find travel guides offering to give you a full tour, starting from the ferry dock in Dakar but we declined until getting to the island.

The first glimpses of Goiree are stunning! Beautiful clear water beaches, huge rocks surrounded the port, colorful buildings, beachside restaurants, happy, smiling, swimming people….wait, hold on! This was a former slave port?!? You don’t feel the weight of Goiree until you penetrate the shore, pay your tourist tax, and make your way down the winding, pebble-paved paths.

The former slave castle opens in the afternoon, so until then, we walked around Goiree, looking at statues and flowers and visiting the History Museum. There really isn’t much to tell about the museum. It was unimpressive and confusing. A tour guide and some English would’ve been helpful to explain some very questionable images and displays. The best part of the museum was the view from the roof of Goiree and Dakar.

Touring the slave castle is where a tour guide does comes in handy. Our tour guide didn’t cost us more than a few dollars per person and he enthusiastically gave us the history of Goiree. We were going to pass him by until he “proved himself” by telling my Mom that the rocks that she was collecting from the island were actually European rocks used to weigh down the slave ships and that the “African rocks” were the smooth, black volcanic rocks. Our tour guide went on to tell us about the segregation process for incoming Africans-turned-slaves. If the men weighed more than 60 kilograms, they continued onward for transport while the others remained behind to be fed beans until they reached a suitable weight. Each holding cell crammed dozens of individuals for 23 hours per day, leaving only one hour for recreation and relieving one’s self. Young virgin girls were identified by the shape of their breasts and had the privilege of having a floor latrine in their cell. Why such a privilege? Because their slave master had full and complete access to any of the girls at anytime, with promises that if they bore a child, they would be freed.

There were several holding cells for those considered “recalcitrant”.  One such cell was a small cramped place where several men were packed in, backwards. In such a space, you could neither sit nor stand. When Nelson Mandela visited Goiree, he asked to be left alone to stand in that very cell and couldn’t fathom spending 15 minutes in that space, though he had spent more than 20 years enduring the cruelty of Robben Island in South Africa.

On the main level of the slave castle, we finally saw the infamous “Door of No Return” where Africans were shackled in pairs by the necks, wrists, and ankles, attached to a 10 kilo ball, and ushered onto the slave ships. Two guards stood at each side of the door to ensure that the Africans wouldn’t plunge to their death in the shark-infested moat surrounding huge rocks at the foundation of the building. It’s chilling to think that our ancestors very likely passed through this very same door or a similar one en route to a life of slavery in the Caribbean or the Americas- that’s if they survived the horrendous journey at all!  Many Africans died in the dark journey, packed onto ships, head to foot, in layers like sardines. What a tragic holocaust we’ve endured!

The slave castle was our last stop on Goiree before taking the ferry trip back to Dakar. The experience was moving and disgusting- such a beautiful island, with beautiful people, marred by such injustice and barbaric crimes.

The top floor of the slave castle was the home of the slave masters. A fine dining room, with fine furniture, and house maids, for sure- an example of “high society” life, enjoyed only feet above extreme torture and humiliation. I guess when you believe you’re superior to others, you don’t consider the fact that you’ve torn the families, lives, and honor from a civilized people! I know of others who made a similar journey to former slave ports and they were moved to tears and wailing. For whatever reason, we were disappointed but not distraught. Slavery was and is a very dark period in African history but it’s certainly not our beginning, nor is it our end. A timely reminder of this was a sermon we listened to recently about the nobility of early African Muslims and the permanent impact they made on the history of Islam. Click on this link if you’re interested.