Archive for Yemen

Martial Arts for the Soul

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Reflecting on the last year of our life and its adventures can be summarized as martial arts training for the soul. We’ve already summarized our experiences in Sana’a and during the Hajj, but now, it’s time to reflect on our time spent in a blessed valley in Hadhramaut, known as Tarim. One of the lasting impressions we hope to take from the seven months we spent there is the realization that our time in Hadhramaut is the safest we’ve ever felt, both spiritually and materially. To walk the streets at any time of night, without fear of harm or random acts of violence was a refreshing experience. Children can be children and run freely in the streets, shop in the markets, and play in the dirt the way our parents speak of their innocent upbringing in Jamaica decades ago. To be free of the psychosocial manipulation and objectification propagated by advertising schemes was uplifting. To be in a place where people are in constant remembrance of the Maker both individually and collectively was enlightening.
Thankfully, we were both able to continue our Arabic studies there but we received much more than the nuts and bolts of the language. We had the opportunity to connect the Arabic language to the Holy Qur’an and its meanings, prophetic statements, wise sayings of sages, poetry and religious songs. Just in case you’re wondering, we are nowhere near fluent in Arabic but, hopefully, we have a functional level of Arabic and language skills, with reading comprehension as our strongest skill and verbal communication as our weakest skill. We’re sure many other language learners can identify with the frustration of being able to understand more than you can speak, but in the end, its satisfying to know that we had enough of an understanding of the language to benefit from some very special people- upright and enlightened women and men of God that really took us by the hand to walk with them on the path of gnosis and nearness to the Most High.
We had the opportunity to live in a place where people don’t recall folklores or fairy tales of imaginary characters and heroes, but rather they recall the accounts of righteous predecessors and prophets- where people praise virtue and moral fiber, not outer forms and appearances. A place where empty holidays are not celebrated, but rather holy days that connect to real historical events and have real significance are remembered. A place where people honor their elders and are merciful to their youth. A place where teachers and scholars are revered as bearers of knowledge and inheritors of prophets.
In the same way a martial artist trains, strengthens, and works toward mastery of the self, we studied the teachings and ways of spiritual martial artists. They serve as guides to the path of prophetic revelation with the goal of attaining God’s pleasure.
The challenge when you leave such a place is assessing how much of the training has been woven into you. Can you stand on your own after the crutches of your environment and constant reminding and encouragement have been removed? So, this is where we are. Trying to translate what we’ve learned into practice, in a sustainable way that will move with us as we move and live with us as we live.
Currently, we’re in the u.s. of a. We were invited to visit a friend of ours in Jakarta and spent about a week there and then took the long way home, traveling east instead of west. Our flight stopped in Korea and now we’re in New York visiting eternitysojourner’s family. After some upcoming family gatherings and celebrations, we’ll be heading to the sunshine state to visit urbndervish’s family, insha’Allah (God willing). Where’s home for us, right now? Wherever we are is where home is. As for what’s next…just stay tuned.

Yours,
the raggamuslims

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Witnessing Birth

 

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About two weeks ago I (eternitysojourner) was blessed with the rare opportunity to witness the struggle of labor and the miracle of birth.  I witnessed birth for the first time when I was in high school as a nursing student.  The second, third, and fourth births I witnessed were right here in Hadhramaut, as a birth assistant for the free birthing clinic here, operated by a (wonderful) certified nurse midwife and (also wonderful) midwife trainee from the u.s.  Under their tutelage, I felt like I was a nursing student all over again because I had only worked with the elderly in the past. 

Alhamdulillah (praise be to God), I remembered a few of the pertinent skills of a nurse but learned a lot of new skills like listening for a fetal heart rate, assessing a newborn, the risks involved when holding the hand of a woman who is in the peak of her labor, etc.   The clinic is temporarily closed (or so we hope) because our midwife is currently abroad, but I feel like those few months prepared to attend the recent home birth of my dear friend. 

The normative practice of birth here in Hadhramaut is for women to brave their way through the birth at the overcrowded public hospitals, have a midwife deliver their baby at home or deliver their babies themselves at home (hard core, right?).  Unassisted home births may be rare in the states but they are quite common here.  The challenges of this reality gave birth to the free clinic.  Pardon the pun. It was apparent that mothers and babies were undergoing avoidable challenges and preventable fatalities during unassisted births- perhaps because of a lack of resources and/or information.  Before the clinic, prenatal care meant going to the hospital if you have a problem, not having routine assessments every few months.  One of the greatest accomplishments of the clinic, in my opinion, was the prenatal care it offered.  We were able to preliminarily assess if a mother was showing signs of gestational diabetes, pre-eclampsia, iron deficiency, blood type incompatibility, etc.  The clinic was a harmonious marriage of between the best of “the west” and “the east”, with respect to the birthing experience.

All of these experiences gave me a sense of what happens during pregnancy and what happens in the last hour or so before delivery but the actual labor process was unknown to me.  Because we share a two-family home, I was able to witness most of my friend’s labor and observe how it developed. In the absence of the clinic, we were able to develop a prenatal care plan with a nurse and the local clinic.  My friend previously had a C-section, so everyone and her mama (literally) told her that she had to have another C-section and that a natural birth would not be possible.  Being the brave warrior that she is, she did her research and trusted the spiritual insight of our elder, teacher, and guide who is from and resides here in Hadhramaut.

Her first day of labor started after the morning prayer at dawn and continued consistently, though manageably, through most of the day.  At this time I thought, “Hey, this is not too bad”.  We were talking, eating, walking around, reading and listening to Qur’an, etc.  In the mid-morning she had dilated 2 cm. and by the end of the day, after the night prayer, she only progressed to 4 cm.  The nurse informed her that she would most likely labor through the night and have the baby by the following day.  I went to sleep anticipating that I would check on her after the dawn prayer in the morning.  At around 2 am, urbndervish heard my friend’s husband knock on the door.  When we answered the door he said “I need you to come now!” and quickly returned to his wife.  I got dressed and as I got closer to her room I didn’t hear a sound.  This made me think that we weren’t too close to delivery because usually mothers are squirming, groaning, grabbing and the like just before the delivery.  At this point, I was somewhat nervous but not too nervous until the moment I saw my friend; I saw that she was wearing “the face”.  What face?  The face of a woman trying to preserve her sanity as she experiences the most physical pain she’s ever felt in her life.  The face of a woman who’s becoming desperate in her mental, physical, and spiritual attempts to cope with labor.  The face of a woman who has to know that she’s getting closer to the end because she doesn’t know how much more she can handle.  Yeah- that face.  No smiling, no talking, no eating- just laboring.

I went to phone the nurse who, alhamdulillah, only lives a few minutes away.  I told her the details of what my friend’s husband told me “She’s having contractions every two or three minutes and they’re lasting more than a minute each and she feels like she has to push”.  So, I, with my amateur birth assistant self, am trying to function despite my racing heart and the anxiety that this baby may be due to arrive before the nurse reaches.  I thought to myself, “I cannot do this alone”.  My friend’s husband is with her during her labor, applying pressure to her back and encouraging her, so I try to go and do something productive with myself…I go to make ablution (ritual washing before prayer) and hope that I can at least pray Salaatu’l Hajjah (The Prayer of Need) but before I can finish washing my feet I hear a scream “MY WATER BROKE!!!..IT’S EVERYWHERE!!!…MY SOCKS ARE WET…TAKE THEM OFF…  I’M GOING TO HAVE THIS BABY ON THE TOILET!!!”  I nervously yell back, “I’m coming.  I’m coming.”  And now I’m starting to think, “Dear Lord, what am I going to do if the baby comes before the nurse does.”  I go to my friend and take her back to her bed.  Her shoulders are tense and her footsteps are light.  I can hear her loud and clear now.  She reaches the bed and I confirm that she’s not yet crowning but she does want to push.  I try to tell her to hold on because the nurse is coming (good advice, right?  I’m sure the baby was thinking “Yes, aunty.  Of course, I’ll wait for the nurse to come.  That’s a great idea!”). 

I call the nurse again and tell her about the water breaking and the urge to push and that she needs to come now.  The nurse yells to her boys in Somali to get dressed quickly so they can walk her to our building.  Still in a panic and with the very real realization that this baby is really coming soon, I start to recall and reenact my birth assistant duties.  Get the clamps and the scissors, line the bed, get fabric to receive the baby with, get sterile gloves, get the suction bulb, etc.  I’m trying my best to think straight but I’m trying to prepare myself to drop everything to receive a baby if I see an emerging head.

Alhamdulillah, the nurse comes in like a pro.  She checked my friend and affirmed that the delivery is close.  She orders me to listen for a fetal heart rate, which is pumping strong, masha’Allah (what God wills), and I try to assure my friend that the baby is fine.  A natural birth post C-section is what my friend has been talking about, thinking about, preparing and empowering herself for, for the past few months but now is the moment of truth- the moment of certainty.  What will happen is about to happen and we don’t know yet what that is.  The nurse was very “hands on” and for a moment we thought she would get that baby out on her own.  ;)   She was pushing my friend’s stomach and making room for the baby’s head to emerge.  We all know that this baby is about to come and my friend is pushing with the contractions.  The nurse is front and center, my friend’s husband to her right and I’m just behind them both, somewhere in between.  The recitation of the Qur’an was playing in the background and we were all reciting different recitations of prayers and remembrances:  La ilaha illallah, La howla wa la quwwata illa Billah, Allahumma salli ‘ala sayyiduna Muhammad wa ‘ala alihi wa sahbihi wa sallam.  We were all calling on God in the best way we knew how at the time when the Divine was most needed.

The head emerges facing downward and for whatever reason I played the role of sports caster announcing to my friend every play by play.  “The head is out”  “The baby’s fine” “She’s a girl”  “She’s beautiful” “You did it”  “Everyone said you couldn’t do it and you did it”.  We were all saying many prayers of gratitude.  Back to my birth assistant tasks- I suctioned the baby’s mouth, wiped her, pass the clamps and scissors.  The nurse offered my friend’s husband to cut the umbilical cord after it stopped pulsing, which he did.  I wrap the baby and listen to her breathing and heart rate.

Shortly after the birth we heard the adhan (call to prayer) for tahajjud (voluntarily night prayers), and once the baby was wrapped up, her father performed the tradition of saying the call to prayer in the baby’s right ear. After we weighed her (3.3 kg or 7.3 lbs.), we all heard the adhan for the dawn prayer.  In this princess’s first hour of life, she heard prayers of remembrance, three adhans, and Qur’an recitation- what a way to start your life- in the loving arms of people of faith.  Five minutes or so after her birth, the nurse asked what time is it.  My new baby niece was born a few minutes before 3 am. 

When another dear sister/friend of mine had her baby several months ago, she told me “This may sound cheesy but after the baby was born, it was all peace and love”.  I have an understanding of what she means.  Once the anxiety of uncertainty was lifted, we were able to breathe deeply and take in the beauty of what we experienced individually and collectively.  All you felt was serenity from the Divine and gratitude to the Divine for ordaining what was beyond our ability to micro-manage. 

My friend wasn’t quite ready to move or nurse, so I sat holding the baby by her side and the nurse was sitting not too far and we were just relishing in the moment.  As with the previous births, how meticulously and completely developed the babies are amazes me.  The fine curve of their cuticles, the softness of their nails, the pucker of the lips, the symmetry of their little noses…subhan’Allah (glory be to God).  It’s so humbling to witness the complexity of our design- that our bodies perform their created functions without our conscious management in a manner more excellent that what we can attempt to produce with our conscious minds, hands, and tools.  Ajeeb (amazing)!

The process of birth is such a paradigm for achieving so many of our life goals, especially our spiritual aspirations.  We start with the seed of a sincere intention, followed by the sincere actions that follow that intention.  We nurture our goal and have patience on the path towards the goal- its challenges, its difficulties, its joys.  We struggle with our selves when the time demands for such struggle and then give birth to the fruit of our struggle’s product.  When we struggle against the lowness of our selves and the obstacles of the material world, we attain the bliss of pleasure and contentment.  This is the nafs al-mutma’innah (the contented or reassured soul).  You’ve struggled to subdue the self’s lowness, to elevate it, and to bring it into accordance with the will of the Divine.  After this struggle, the self is content- pleased with and pleasing to its Maker.  May Allah grant us the serenity of this contentment and make easy for us the labor that it entails- ameen!

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The Moon and I

Lately I’ve been praying my morning prayers on the roof of our building.  I think out of all the tenants in our building, we use the roof most frequently- to dry clothes, to gaze at stars, to take pictures, and the like.  But then, I started to go to the roof  to enjoy the coolness of the morning and to soak up its serenity.  Because people’s lives revolve around worship so naturally here, just about everyone is doing the same thing at that time- praying, worshipping, reflecting, etc.  All you can hear are the birds chirping and the murmurs of the activities in the masaajid (mosques).  But as the morning gets closer to sunrise, the scent of the air changes and you start to hear an occasional car or motorcycle on the road and the construction workers starting their work.  You can also smell the brick ovens being heated to bake a type of bread called haif.  This bread is commonly eaten for breakfast here.  I’ll tell you more about the bread once I have a picture of it, insha’Allah (God-Willing).  100_1307

Today, as I was laying my prayer mat on the ground, I felt a light shining on me and thought “Who left the light on up here?”.  (Note:  There are lights on the roof.)  I look up to notice that the light shining in my face is nothing other than the full moon (al-badr). 

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Subhan’Allah (Glory to be God), it felt like a spotlight shining on none other than myself.  This reminded me of the few times that I was awakened in the night, as an adolescent, because I could feel the full moon shining on my face .  At those times, I felt very close to the Creator and grateful that The Light (An-Nur) was shining on me.  The same feeling I had on those nights I felt today. I didn’t do anything to receive this light but it was shining on me as a child, and it is shining on me today.  But now, I’m awake.  Alhamdulillah (Praise be to God).

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Ode to Sana’a

Sana’a is a lovely and unique city with many beautiful people.  We’ve enjoyed a wonderful three months studying there but have decided that it would be better for us to relocate.  Sana’a, being the capital city, is naturally more expensive then other parts of Yemen.  To remain in Sana’a, we would have to start teaching English as a means of generating income, which means that we would have less time to devote to our studies.  Given this conundrum, we’ve decided to relocate to a place where the cost of living is cheaper, the Arabic studies are cheaper, Qur’an studies and other Islamic studies are offered at no cost, and the people are cool.  Where exactly is this place?  We are currently in Hadhramaut.  Remember where our oh-so-delicious honey was from?

We are literally in a small desert town surrounded by beautiful mountains.  At night, the mountains emit a reddish hue and suspended just above them lies a blanket of stars, glittering the night sky.  I’ve never been out west, but the mountains here remind me of pictures that I’ve seen of mountains in Sante Fe. 

Growing up in New York City, I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many stars in my life!  You cannot help but glorify the Creator when you witness such a sight.  I was walking with a group of sisters the other evening and the electricity went out.  We all looked up and stood frozen and in awe by the sight of so many stars.  Most of us, being Western city girls, stood there oohing, aahing, and saying “Subhan Allah” (Glory be to God) at such a sight.

The town has the feel of a university town (minus drunken students loitering the campus at night, of course).  The students here hail from Indonesia, Sierra Leone, South Africa, Norway, Germany, Japan, Yemen, U.S. U.K. Tunisia, Morocco, Sweden, Comoros, Canada and many places in between. The community here is diverse, with so many sincere, God-fearing people that you can not help but be affected for the better.  The days are filled with classes and study, and the nights are filled with worship and rest. 

Having friends who preceded us to this location, we were able to jump right in to the action.  We arrived on Thursday (about two weeks ago) but it feels like we’ve been here longer.  Urbndervish is studying at Badr Institute for Arabic Language and I’m taking private lessons in Arabic.  Considering how much we have yet to learn of this language, we wanted to take the opportunity to devote ourselves wholeheartedly to its study at this early stage in our pursuit. 

Note for the Arabic students:  Urbndervish is continuing ‘Arabiyyat lil-Anasheen and I’m studying Kitab al-Asassi for now. 

So, Sana’a; it’s been real.  You’ve been great.  It’s us, not you.  We hope to see you again soon.  Before we forget; here are our few features of Sana’a that we failed to mention earlier. 100_0950

Yes, water is a bounty!  You tell them, Mr. Yemeni Water Drop! 

This ad is part of a water conservation campaign.

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These new trash cans have been appearing all over Sana’a.  Now just to get folks to actually put the trash in the can and not on the floor and we’ll be well on our way.

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Children playing in dirt, as they love to do in these parts.

 

And the last thing that we were happy to find was affordable, homeopathic medicines at the pharmacy.  We were able to find all kinds of Ayurvedic medicines to nurse muscle strain and the post-Hajj cough.  Nice to know that alternative health products are not over-priced and reserved for the elite in Sana’a!

 

Side Note:  Remember our sassy crib?

If you’re looking for a clean, convenient and modern apartment/flat during your stay in Sana’a, we would highly recommend Sana’a Apartments.  The apartment is centrally located and the neighbors are great! 

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“War; What is it Good For?”

Note:  This is a pre-Hajj post.

Urbndervish here. I took a long hiatus from posting material on the blog; however, after Eternitysojourner and I toured the Mut-haf al-Harb (Tr. “War Museum”) here in Sanaa, I thought that a reflective review would be called for.

 

First, I would like to start by stating that I will attempt to be as objective as possible. Amongst the lies that we were taught was the belief that we, as human beings, are able to miraculously remove ourselves from the constraints of time and space to judge someone or something unprejudiced. Consequently, there is no such thing as true objectivity. It occupies the same place in the closet as Santa Claus, the Tooth Fairy, and Ultra-Conservative sentimentality. Objectivity’s non-existence was blatantly portrayed at the museum, but more on that later.

 

That withstanding, I think that it is necessary to begin by a series of commentaries of the photos.

 

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It is the necessary policy of every state to justify its creation and subsequent existence by juxtaposing itself against an enemy. In other words, something is defined against an “other.” The idea of an identity politic has always been the means of galvanizing communities into a single body as well as differentiating themselves against a common foe that is perceived as threatening the existence of this community. The modern Yemen Republic is no exception.

The existence of a “Military Museum” in Yemen is an establishment meant to preserve the identity of Yemen as a modern republic. This also implies that the previous system or any other opposing system must be demonized and portrayed as inimical to this identity. The museum is an Ideological State Apparatus made to remind the Yemenis of their collective past, as well as justify its very existence.

 

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Presenting a collective past and history of a people are a means to create a sense of nationhood and statehood. These cuneiforms are written in a script associated with the Sabaean people who existed thousands of years prior to the Common Era. For those of us familiar with the fabled Queen of Sheba, we know that she was a potentate whose kingdom was said to encompass half of the world. Whether we know her as “Bilqis” or “Makeda”, her kingdom is universally known as “Sheba.” Amongst the differences in the etymological renderings, “Sheba” is derived from “Saba” and subsequently, the term “Sabaeans” was used to denote the people of the southwestern Arabian Peninsula and the East African coast. These are the people that the Yemenis trace their lineage from.

 

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The Sabaeans later become Yemenis and then millennia later, adopted the Islamic way of life. This actually took place during the lifetime of Prophet Muhammad.

These photos are copies of a letter sent to one of the kings in Yemen named al-Mundhir bin Sawi. In a time where the Prophet of Islam is portrayed as a bloodthirsty madman who spread Islam with the Qur’an in one hand and a sword in the other, this letter demonstrates his diplomacy and peaceful nature. It is a simple invitation to accept the faith with no threats of invasion or the like.

The Yemeni historical consciousness lauds itself as being a place that peacefully accepted the religion of Islam and was supplicated for by the Prophet himself.

The round symbol is the seal of the Prophet’s signet ring.

 

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Decades after the death of the Prophet, Islamic rule became associated with dynastic rule and ambition. The Umayyad dynasty occupied a place in this and ruled over much of the Muslim world. They are characterized as the first dynasty in Islam, and indeed, one of its early rulers boasted of being the “Caesar” of the expanding Muslim empire. The idyllic image of simple, pastoral life in the Arabian sand, as characterized by the era of the Prophet, became replaced by the counter-image of obese monarchs sitting on golden-encrusted thrones while messily slurping oysters from silver platters.

One of the ways of cementing one’s occupancy in a land and in the consciousness of a people is by minting coinage in one’s name. Placing ones name and pictorial representation on money can be seen as a method of reminding the subjugated of who is actually in charge. Because monetary transactions take place all of the time, what better way of subliminally nudging the subjugated’s conscience? One can readily recall the purported statement of Jesus. Right before his more well known statement, “Render unto Caesar…”, he asked, “Whose image do you see on this coin?” Of course, the question was rhetorical then, and it is even more rhetorical now. The Umayyads were not an exception to this rule. The photo above is that of the coinage Umayyad ruler, Hisham bin Abdal-Malik.

No longer able to ideologically subjugate the masses by the “Divine Right of Kings” doctrine, the Umayyad’s hold waned and was quickly supplanted by the Abbasids. The Abbasid propaganda against the Umayyads, in which they were portrayed as an irreligious aristocracy, won support once the masses witnessed the Umayyads’ brutal suppression of the last living legacy of Islam’s Prophet, his venerable descendants. The Abbasids were then placed in the seat of Muslim authority, but then couldn’t maintain the strain of competing with would-be pretenders to the throne, warring autocrats, and constant rebellions. They were replaced and then those who replaced were themselves replaced until the title of “caliph”, or universal ruler of the Muslim body, became confined to rulers of immediate locales. One of these empires, the Ayyubid dynasty, was founded by the Muslim hero of the Crusades, Salahuddin or “Saladin”, as he is called in the West.

The second picture is that of the Ayyubids’ relics. The axes and vase have Arabic inscriptions.  

 

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In Yemen, the tribes who were headed by chiefs, were involved in numerous disputes. They sought an arbitrator; but one was not to be found in the caliph’s governors or even the caliph himself; who probably had more on their plate to deal with than the meager slap-fights of a bunch of shaggy Bedouins. They looked to Madina, where the descendants of the Prophet were to be found in abundance. A scholar by the name of Yahya bin al-Hussein, who was the grandson of one the leading imams descended from the Prophet, named Imam al-Qasim bin Ibrahim, was sought out to travel to Yemen and help solve these tribal disputes.

One side note should be made regarding the role of the Prophet’s descendants in Muslim tradition. The Prophet’s descendants, known collectively as Ahl al-Bayt (Tr. “People of the House”), hold a prominent position in the Muslim mind. Numerous reports of the Prophet’s statements portray him as assigning a special position to his offspring. One example is his statement: “My Ahl al-Bayt are like the Ark of Noah. Whoever embarks upon them shall be saved, and whoever doesn’t shall be drowned.” The egalitarian spirit of Islam’s teachings, of course, rejects the idea that someone can inherit virtue or sin from their parents. Consequently, it doesn’t sit well with the Muslim to think that the Prophet would show favouritism towards his family simply out of tribal custom or individual preference. From an Islamic perspective, he only conveys what has been revealed to him from God and any display of preference towards anyone would demonstrate selfish aims, and thereby contradict his teaching that every individual is responsible for their own actions. Furthermore, the Qur’an is replete with accounts in which the immediate family of a prophet is visited by divine punishment despite the prophet’s own wishes. That withstanding, the Prophet’s mentioning of his family in such high regard must be a result of divine injunction, and the virtues that they posses must be in concordance with their own individual states. Because of this, throughout history, a certain precedence was given to the Prophet’s descendants; whether it be in the realm of scholastic contributions, spirituality, political rule, or even armed struggle against existing political rule.

This brings us back to the appeal of the Yemeni tribes to Imam Yahya. After he came to Yemen and settled the tribal disputes, they, in turn, declared him “Imam” of Yemen. This title implies not only a temporal political leadership, but also a source of religious leadership. The tribes of most of Yemen were centralized under the rule of this imam from the progeny of Muhammad. As evident by the many letters of inquiry sent to him by the Yemenis, he was seemingly, universally respected by them as a man of administrative ability as well as a scholarly, religious authority.

For the years to follow, Yemen was to be shaded by the shadow of the imams of the Ahl al-Bayt. This Imamate lasted in Yemen until the encroachment of the Ottomans, but it later reemerged and defeated the Turkish Empire.

The first picture is of the coinage minted during the rule of one of these imams, An-Nasser li Deenillah Ahmed bin Yahya. He is the son of the aforementioned Imam Yahya bin al-Hussein, who was given the moniker of “al-Hadi ila al-Haqq” (Tr. “The Guide to the Truth”).

The other pictures are of a mimbar (tr. “pulpit”) in which the Muslim preacher of the Friday services delivers his sermon to the public. It was first constructed in 310 AH (Islamic calendar) and repaired in 984 AH by the Ottomans.

 

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The Ottomans served as the inimical “other” in the Yemeni historical conscience. The Ottoman authority represented a modern rendition of the Islamic political authority of the past. It was they who created the “Islamic State”. Prior to that, the lands dominated by Muslim rule and administration were simply strewn extensions of Islamic governance made to comprise of small hamlets as well as entire regions. However, it was the Ottomans that transformed these scattered, individual sultanates into a centralized, modern State. The Umayyads could easily rival the Roman Empire in the 8th century; however, they wouldn’t have been able to hold a candle to the 19th century European republics. Muslim rule had to evolve into a top-heavy, monolithic entity that could stand toe-to-toe with Western (and Eastern) expansionism and development. After all, the various competing European statelets of the past put aside their differences (language, culture, etc.) long enough to focus on their similarities (which was Whiteness and Christianity in the past; and Enlightenment Ideals later) and come together to create a European “State.” Let us not forget that the word “State” is derived from the term “stasis” which implies a regulation of something so that it doesn’t increase or decrease too much. Likewise, the creation of Islamic Statehood was necessary to meet the challenge of a changing world.

Regardless of such, the Ottoman State authority was challenged and victim to fragmentation and rebellion. One of which, were the Yemenis. They looked to the past and concluded that the religious/political authority of an Arab imamate was preferable to a bureaucratic Turkish Caliphal State. Rebellion against the Ottomans gave way to the return of dynastic rule in the form of the imamate.

The first photo is of chain mail during Ottoman reign. The second photo is of wooden engravings during the same period.

 

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Yemen’s conscience then became centered around the rule of the imams. They were seen as the victorious rulers who removed foreign rule from Yemen. The first picture is of Imam Ahmed bin Yahya. Always decked out in traditional regalia, he became a visual reminder of Yemen’s past commitment to the line of imams from the Progeny of the Prophet. There are various images of Imam Ahmed, most of which are negative. He is portrayed as a despotic ruler oftentimes resorting to draconian measures in persecuting his enemies. He is portrayed as a backwards hillbilly who would intentionally avoid material progress to keep his people in abject poverty so that his royal standard of living could remain distinguished from them. To what extent these portrayals are true depends on one’s own perspective and opinion. 

The second picture is of a text of Islamic jurisprudence, called “Kitaab al-Azhar.” This text is still taught to this day and I had the privilege of meeting one of the author’s descendants. This book and other books like it, demonstrates that central to the Islamic faith is the combination of individual worship as well as public responsibility. Insomuch that a law text may contain the rules of purification and prayer but also have a chapter dedicated to the rules of business transactions and the distribution of alms. Theoretically, there was no separation of religion and state in the Islamic conscience. The next phase of Yemen’s history would take it into a bloody civil war which implications are still felt to this day.

 

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One of the other lasting images of Imam Ahmed portrays him as superstitious. The above photos are of a hurz, or hijaab. These terms are used to refer to certain “prescriptions” believed to protect the possessor from certain harm and/or bring about fortunate outcomes. They are generally worn or carried by the possessor. I guess a rough translation would be “talisman” although the word “talisman” is loaded with various underlying concepts that don’t apply to a hurz.

This particular hurz was written to increase marital potency and ease the delivery of childbirth. Usually a hurz is written including various formulae of the “Names of Allah”, supplications, and Qur’anic verses. Although Islam categorically rejects to use of and practice of magic, there is a silent acceptance of utilizing a hurz. I will discuss this in more detail in a future post, God willing.  

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The next phase that Yemen underwent was the Republican Revolution. Some thought that the imamate was an antiquated fossil that needed to be buried once and for all. Others believed that Yemen was to join the Arab nationalist set and become a republic. Prior to this a man named Jamal Abdun-Nasser articulated the need for the Muslim (specifically, the Arab) world to modernize thus, be able to compete with the European world. He adopted an Arab version of socialism espoused by the likes of Lebanese, Christian thinker and founder of the Ba’ath party, Michel Aflaq. The founders of the Yemen republic took on the same line of thinking and sought the immediate dethroning of the Imam. Any vestige of an iconic, Muslim monarchy, such as the caliphate or imamate, was ridiculed as the antithesis of what a modern Nation-State should consist of. The anti-Imam propaganda referred to his rule using the term, “ecclesiastical”; suggesting that another old-fashioned concept that must be deleted was that of a “theocracy”. They received help from the aforementioned Abdun-Nasser and forged a military and ideological attack upon the imamate. Consequently, Abdun-Nasser and the republicans of Egypt had recently triumphed over their own monarch, King Farouq. The victory of the republicans over the royalists in the Yemen civil war formed the modern Republic of Yemen.  

The first picture is of the “Sacred Charter”. It states the declaration of the new State that was to be formed.

The second picture is a collage with the photos of a Yemeni diplomat visiting the USSR, China, etc.

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This picture is of the car that Imam Ahmed was assassinated in. The death of Imam Ahmed was a symbolic representation of the new era that Yemen would be ushered in. The era of the modern Arab republic replaced the era of Imamate. Yemen was to sprinkle the last bit of dust of the buried Imamate and forge ahead to meet the challenges of a new republic.

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Malaysian Restaurant: Kedai Makan Damai

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This week, we went to a Malaysian restaurant with some of our Malay neighbors.  The restaurant is less than a year old but is quite popular with some of the Malaysian and Indonesian professors in Sana’a.  The restaurant owners are a beautiful family, whose son is currently studying at one of the schools here.

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The dining experience seeks to evoke a very tropical feel.  The restaurant is actually a sheltered outdoor courtyard with many plants and beautiful pictures of Malaysia on the walls.  There is also some creative “graffiti art” on the walls too.

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As for the food, the owners developed a special menu for us that included Malaysian lemonade (served warm), vegetable tempura, fried rice, and an Indonesian dish called “Gadu Gadu”. 

Veggie tempura

Veggie tempura

 

Everything was really delicious!  Gadu Gadu was an interesting dish consisting of shredded cucumbers and carrots, noodles, crispy potato chips, and Malaysian crackers.  The dish is usually served with tofu, but unfortunately they didn’t have any in stock. 

Gadu Gadu
Gadu Gadu

The night was chilly but the warm lemonade and spicy peanut chili sauce compensated for the cool night.  Our overall rating:  3.5/5 veggie tempuras.

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Nomadic by Nature: Parables of a Traveler

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“Be in this world as if you were a stranger or a traveler” –translated saying of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him)

 

There are many lessons to be drawn from travel.  The traveler tends to seek out a sense of home wherever they may be and must often consider where or what is home in its reality.  Is it a place?  A feeling?  A presence?  The traveler has to consider what to bring for their travel.  What is essential for one’s daily functioning?  The traveler tends to think as a utilitarian and evaluates what essentials are needed.  The traveler is wary of accumulating excess because of how it will hinder their journey.  The traveler tends to be open to the possibilities of what each new day holds because they know that no two days are the same, even in the same place.  The traveler tries to embrace the challenges of the day, realizing that there might be an unexpected good in the outcome.  Maybe that “wrong” turn took you to the presence of one you would not have found otherwise.  Maybe that missed flight gave you a few more precious hours to spend with someone you love.  The traveler tends to consider wisely how their time is spent because they know that they will not be in any given place for too long.   

 

Even if we do not consider ourselves “travelers”, what lessons can we learn from their life?  We are all on a common journey, which is our very lives, so how can we apply the mentality of the traveler to how we live?  Maybe we can become more aware of how we expend the jewels of our time and the wealth of our energy.  Maybe we can appreciate those around us and treat those we encounter in the best way, not knowing know how long they or we will remain.  Maybe we can avoid accumulating excess in our lives materially and immaterially.  Excess food makes one feel sluggish and ungrateful.  Excess sleep makes one feel lethargic and unproductive.  Excess activity preoccupies one from their priorities and what matters most.  Does the “bag” that we carry in this life have room for such excess?  How can we benefit from reexamining, reassessing, and removing excess from our lives?  The more that we carry, the more we must give account for: this is true for declaring possessions in customs and the same principle holds true in Islamic cosmology.  “To whom much is given, much is expected” is a common adage and how true it is.  What we don’t have in wealth, we may have in youthful energy, free time, intellect, gifts, talents, etc.  We all have something to give and share with the world around us.  The Bestower of Gifts will call us to account for how we expended our gifts in this life and the bag we take with us to the journey beyond this life is the benefit or harm that our intentions, actions, and reactions earned for us.  On that Day of Reckoning, a sound heart (qalbu-saleem) will be the most prized possession and worth more than all the riches the earth contains. 

What have you prepared for the journey ahead?

 

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A Simple Life

 

There hasn’t much to write about lately because our routine has been pretty typical.  We pray, attend our Arabic classes in the morning, eat a light breakfast, study, pray, study or take a nap, pray, cook dinner, pray, eat, pray, and study.  Ahhh…the glorious life of a student!  Every few days we go to the computer lab to check our email or to the market to buy food and then it’s back to…studying.  ;)  

Really and truly, it is a blessing to have a break from the “rat race”.  Working 9-hour days with an hour-long gas-guzzling comute is something I don’t miss.  Looking forward to days such as these was a huge motivation when I struggled to get to work. 

On our weekends, we rest, study, may go someplace local but nothing much to write home about.   We might do some traveling in the next few weeks.  If so, we’ll tell you all about it.  Until then, we’re just enjoying the routine of our simple life and being grateful that we’ve been blessed with an opportunity to experience this.  We hope you’re enjoying the routines of your life- maybe there’s a blessing in it that you have yet to discover.  As my high school Spanish teacher once told me “Only boring people get bored”.  So invigorate your life with something meaningful and don’t wait for someone or something else to entertain you.  The world around you is full of signs, lessons, and wonders for the people who have the insight to perceive them. 

Here are a few pics of two mosques that we saw recently.  The first two pictures are of a Hadhrami-style mosque affiliated with Dar al-Mustafa in Sana’a.  The third picture is of Masjid Raisi (The President’s Mosque).  The current president had this masjid built and it is currently the biggest one in Sana’a.  Even bigger than Jami’a Kabeer (The Grand Mosque) located in Old Sana’a.

These are pictures of a Hadhrami-style mosque affiliated with Dar al-Mustafa

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Mat’am Al-Hindi

We haven’t done much eating out since we’ve been in Sana’a.  We’ve bought food to eat at home but last night we were adventurous and sought out some Indian food near Haddah Street. 

 

The food at New Indian Restaurant was pretty good and the cost, of course, was reasonable.  We enjoyed Chana Masala, Dal Curry, Chapati bread, and Vegetable Samosas for about $7 USD.  The décor left much to be desired but the food compensated for it.  Larger portions would not have hurt either.  Our overall rating:  3.5/5 Chickpeas.  I thought of taking pictures but most of you know what Indian food looks like, right?  This ain’t Rachel Ray’s blog!  ;)

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Up on the Roof: Urban Gardening in Sana’a

Here are some pics from the rooftop of our Arabic school.  I find it cute how effectively people recycle used containers here.  For example, instead of using buckets to carry soapy water for washing cars, they use old vegetable oil containers.  As you’ll see below, you can grow flowers and produce in those same containers!  Ajeeb!  (Awesome!)

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