Archive for Algeria

Kokkinos

Kokkinos is a cute little eatery in Dely Brahim.  Despite the location’s excellent bus accessibility, it is not a very promising choice for the vegans.  Vegetarians can have a cheesy good time there but I only found one suitable vegan dish and it’s actually just a starting salad. 

Despite this singular salad which they call a “Mexican Salad” (what’s so Mexican about a cabbage salad with like three red kidney beans, raisins, corn, olives, and a vinaigrette?), I keep going back for more.  Why?  I don’t know!  There’s something magnetically attractive about the ambiance.  They even state in their menu that you’ll keep coming back for more!  Maybe they’re slipping something in my salad?  The service is not even that good, but their presentation is impressive. 

On one of my Kokkinos visits, they tried to make me a vegan meal.  I didn’t take a picture but it was an exquisitely beautiful plate filled with side orders.  Two mounds of saffron-colored rice, a few stacks of steamed carrots, zucchini, and turnips, a tied bundle of green string beans, and a side of French fries.  In true French style, the portions were little but boy did it look pretty!  I haven’t been there lately, since my teaching assignment in that neighborhood ended.  And, besides, this little one in my oven needs more than an over-sensationalized salad for lunch.  Urbndervish joined me once to taste their fresh, fruit smoothies which were really good but not cheap. 

All in all, it’s a cute place to eat, if you’re not too hungry.  ;)

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Islamic Antiques Museum

Hello sweetie-pies! Urbndervish here! I know, I know, I know. It’s been a long time! Well, rain is more welcomed after a drought! ;)

As is evident from the previous post from eternitysojourner, one of the fun-filled, romantic activities that we participated in for our anniversary was a sexy stroll through an Islamic antiques museum in Algiers! Ok, I know that is very nerdy but I have learned to embrace my inner- (and “outer-” according to some) dork! Ok, there, I said it! After years of justifying my comic book collecting as “active preservation of Americana,” I can finally admit “I’m a nerd!” Regardless, I ended up marrying a former cheerleader! So, how ya like me now, junior varsity football squad?! 

What can I say about the museum? Unfortunately, we were not able to take photographs while inside!  However, the card that we were given had the website posted. Feel free to peruse.

We first entered the coinage room which contained…well, coins. There were coins from most major Muslim dynasties: the Ummayads, Abbassids, Fatimids, Rustamids, Ottomans, and others. It is interesting that the first order of any kingdom or dynasty is to inundate the conquered with its currency!

Next we hiked up the winding stairs to enter the main museum. It was harrowing to see that eternitysojourner and I were the only patrons there! There were plenty employees turning their attention to us from every corner.

Most of the artifacts ranged from clothing to personal hygiene objects, like antique hand mirrors, perfume bottles, and ancient eye-liner (kohl). There were other items such as embroidered scabbards. This demonstrated to me that the people of the past had an eye for detail and aesthetics!

What peaked most of my interest (of course) were the ancient texts they had. They had handwritten copies of the Qur’an as well as books of jurisprudence. Many of these handwritten books of jurisprudence are considered relics of the past in these days and are relatively unknown. Although these authors dedicated much of their lives and effort to make Islamic jurisprudence easy for the layperson to comprehend by toilingly extracting rulings and judgments from the primary sources, many of these scholars have faded into obscurity and have been replaced by impulsive self-made muftis.

One of the other antique books of interest was an illustrated account written in French about one of the famous ancestors of the Arabs named Antar. What was interesting about this text was that the book portrayed Antar, unmistakenly, as a Black man! This means full lips, dark skin, and broad nose! 

There were also a fair share of embroidered chests. Many of the things in the museum reflected the complex hodgepodge of modern Algerians. Clothing from the Mozab people, tools from the Kabili people, tea sets from the Toureg.

We ended our tour by visiting another building that houses much of the stonework from the early period. Everything was Roman: reliefs, columns, naked statues, etc. There were also gravestones with Latin, Arabic, and Hebrew written on them. The highlight of that place was the friendly security guard who after finding out that we were from the States, proceeded to quiz me on the capitals of each state! Of course, I failed miserably! His knowledge was encyclopedic, I must say! He said that he knew all of the capitals of the states of the US and the provinces of Canada.  He made me promise that I send him a postcard from Tallahassee, FL once I returned to the US!  

That’s about it regarding our museum fun-fest adventure!

Lesson learned: Review the names of the capital cities of each state in case we visit a museum in another country!

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Thai Orchid Restaurant

 

There is a really beautiful Thai restaurant located in Deli Brahim.  It has great ambiance and great service BUT they give no love to the vegans!  It’s such a tragedy.  A thai restaurant and there’s not a single piece of tofu on the menu!  Can you believe it?  Urbndervish and I decided to try their spring rolls but, sadly, we had to pick out pieces of shrimp.

I made a second attempt at eating there and they made a delicious, freshly blended orange juice for me.  They promised to make me a vegan rice dish but, disappointingly, I had to pick out the pieces of egg in it.  It’s really a shame because we would definitely show them some love, if they showed us some love.

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Battery Recharge

One of my colleagues enthusiastically invited me to her home.  This is not so unusual but she told me that we would need an entire day for this adventure.  Fair enough.  I adjusted my plans on Monday and at 9:30am, the journey began.  Firstly, this excursion was a three-bus-journey:  Cheraga to Zeralda, Zeralda to Mahalma, then Mahalma to Sidi Abdullah.    With each bus trip, you could witness the landscape changing and the air feeling lighter.  The buses became smaller too, as we were entering a less densely populated region.  The last bus ride was cozy but friendly since several inhabitants were relatives and neighbors of my host.  When we finally dismounted, after winding and snaking skyward up the narrow roads, I took in a deep breath of fresh air on the empty road.  The air smelt so green.  There was no other way for me to describe it.  Then, by foot, we climbed down the green valley and passed the friendly cows grazing in the pastures to finally arrive at her home.  We were warmly greeted at the door by her grandma who donned black sunglasses, several layers of clothes, and a sassy pashmina hijab (head scarf).  I told my friend “Your grandma is so cool!”  She told me that her grandmother’s vision was failing, hence the need for the sunglasses to protect her delicate lenses from the sun’s glare.  Her hearing was beginning to retire too but not her mind.  At 86, Grandma was as sharp as a tack, only occasionally forgetting where she left her precious prayer beads.  Grandma only spoke Kaabil, the language of the Kaabili Berbers.  This, however, did not stop her from welcoming me with her warmth.  At one point she yelled across the dining table to me “How is your Mom?  Give her my salaam (greeting of peace).” 

My hosts prepared a delectable vegetarian lunch for me.  The meal’s produce and seasonings were mostly grown on their own soil.  How about that for food security?  No pesticides or chemicals, just pure, natural, organic, homegrown goodness.  I long for a day when I can do the same.  After the meal, I received a grand tour of their land and they pointed out all of the produce, fruits, and herbs and told me their benefits.   

Lemongrass

Green Beans

Spinach

Later on, we walked down to the lake and walked back home to enjoy hot tea and cookies.  The entire trip had been so refreshing.  Before leaving their home, I prayed and heard nothing but birds chirping around me.  Though it was only about three o’clock, I had to prepare for the three-bus journey to return to Cheraga to teach my evening class.   Grandma gently scolded us to get going so wouldn’t be late and the family invited me to return with Urbndervish the next time.  I told that I would be glad too and bid them farewell.

Chinese Kamquats

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Taj Mahal

If you’re in the mood for some good Indian food and happen to be in Algiers, you must go here!  Taj Mahal is an excellent Indian restaurant located in Dely Brahim.  For the pedestrians, you can take the Ben Aknoun bus or the Al- ‘Aashour bus to get there.

The entrance has a small pond with artificial plants.  The service is excellent!  From the doorman, to the reception desk, to the waiters, to the servers- they are all extremely professional and attentive.  The two upper levels are designated for dining and on the second level, the kitchen has a large glass window that allows you to watch the chefs in action! 

The food is amazing but not cheap!  Both the Algerians and the foreigners will tell you that!  However, everyone will tell you it’s worth it and that the portions are much larger than the snooty French restaurants serve.  Urbndervish and I dine here for our monthly payday treat!  ;) We order Channa Masala, Aloo Jerra, and Garlic Naan.  They also serve Dhal Makhani but it has a cream base.  They also serve Palak Paneer (I think) for the cheese-eaters out there.  So, if you’re in the neighborhood, stop by at Taj Mahal.

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Red in The Green

I’ve been reconnecting to my roots by learning Chinese.  After the Atlantic Slave Trade ended, laborers from the Far East were brought to the West.  My great grandfather was one of the laborers brought to Jamaica from China.  He owned a small shop where my grandmother spent most of her afternoons and this is most of what I know about him.  My grandmother told me that he spoke Cantonese but she can’t recall much of the language herself.  He was from Cantong Province and I have seen only one picture of him.  It’s a picture of him sitting in a chair with my grandmother and her brother standing at either side.  I hope to go to China one day to see if I can find some of my relatives.  One of my dearest friends happens to be Chinese and she promises to help me in this venture.  Until then, I’m brushing up on my Chinese!  Not officially, but because the school that Urbndervish and I teach at recently hired a Chinese teacher, we’ve had the opportunity to sit in on a few Chinese lessons.

Who wants to learn Chinese in Algeria?  Good question!  Many companies that hire Chinese laborers or provide services to the growing Chinese community are eager to learn Chinese.  The Chinese laborers don’t seem too interested in learning French or Arabic- maybe it’s not a lack of interest but, moreso, a lack of time.  They did migrate here to work, not to live and settle, or so it seems.

What do the Chinese eat in Algeria?!?!  Another good question!  I asked our new Chinese teacher the same question and she said that there’s an “underground” market of Chinese restaurants and imported foods.  She said that some of these restaurants are only known to the Chinese and are not opened to the public.  Naturally, for me, the questioned that followed was “Have you found any tofu?”  After digesting the shock that I like tofu, she told me that there are a few people who make tofu here.  Kind soul that she is, she bought some for me!  I quickly prepared it with some garlic, ginger, curry, tomatoes, and cilantro and it was g-o-o-d!  Alhamdulillah!

How’s the Chinese coming along?  Well, we’ve had two free Chinese classes so far.  It was a good review for Urbndervish because he forgot alot of what he learned while teaching English in China many years ago.  It was also a good review for me since my friend started teaching me some basic Chinese.  I know how to say “Hi!  How are you, my friend?  My name is_________.  Thank you!  You’re Welcome!  Good Bye!”  I can also say the name of our Chinese teacher…or, at least, I think I can.  We’ll keep you posted of any developments.

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Downtown Algiers

Earlier this month we went to Downtown Algiers or Wasata Al-Jaza’ir.  Here are a few pics.  Can you feel the French-ness?

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“Creamy” Pasta Delight

One of Algeria’s national holidays is called Mowloud or Mawlid, which is the birth anniversary of Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings be upon him and his family).  It is commemorated in the Islamic month of Rabi ul-Awwal.  The Mawlid is not celebrated by all Muslims but you can find Muslims celebrating it all over the world.  In parts where it is celebrated, people commonly sing songs or poetry about the life and legacy of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) and tell stories of his life.  Here in Algiers, most people have family over for dinner, light firecrackers, and eat an Algerian dish called “Rishta”.  Rishta, from what we understand, is a traditional dish made with long, fine spaghetti, meat and vegetables.  Urbndervish and I were home for the holiday (which was on Friday; a weekend day) and I wanted to make a special dish that included pasta because all of this pasta talk was making me crave it.  Thanks to a dear friend on the West Coast who introduced us to a “cheezy” macaroni dish a few years ago, I tried to reinvent it with a little Algerian flair.

Ingredients

2 large tomatoes

½ of a medium-sized red onion

2-3 cloves of garlic

½ tsp. salt

½ tsp. pepper

4 tbsp. nutritional yeast (a great source of Vitamin B12)

2 tbsp. olive oil

½ lb. of cooked pasta (I used macaroni)

1 cup of sliced green olives

2 cups of cooked brown lentils (optional)

Cooking Oil

Directions

  1. Sauté onion, tomatoes, and garlic
  2. Add salt and pepper
  3. Simmer on low flame until the tomatoes are mostly cooked down to sauce
  4. Add the nutritional yeast and olive oil
  5. Simmer sauce until creamy and delightful (hence the name of the recipe)
  6. Fold in the pasta, olives, and lentils (optional)
  7. Stir until coated with the sauce.  Season to taste and enjoy!

Note:  I was never a fan of olives but after a month of living in Algeria, I’ve found a love for them (especially the green ones!).  If you’re generally not a fan, start with a little bit at a time.

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Each One Teach Ten


Teaching is such a learning experience. We have students from diverse backgrounds and experiences and they are all so interesting; all in their own way. I try to approach my students as individuals who have a lot to teach me and their other classmates. I try to facilitate their learning experience, not control or dictate it. Urbndervish and I are blessed with the opportunity to work with very dedicated, passionate teachers, both Algerian and non-Algerian. Don’t mess with the Algerian English teachers! They are serious and can probably teach English grammar better than many native English speakers (and may use it better than some too)! There’s a difference between being instructed in the use of language and be instructed through the use of language. Fortunately, I am expected to correct grammar more than teaching it.
For those of you who know Urbndervish, he’s a born teacher! Very charismatic and lovable. He can make some of the most boring lessons seem interesting. My students and I are vibin’ well too and I look forward to witnessing their progress. More than this, I am eager to witness the moments of empowerment where they realize their own progress and the expansion of their assumed limitations.
Here’s just one example of how my students surprise me. I told some of my students that I’m Jamaican and their responses were: “Usain Bolt”, “Bob Marley” and (check this!) “Sean Paul”. What ya’ll know about Sean Paul?!?!
One thing that I really appreciate about the school we teach at is that they approach English as a universal tool that does not belong to America, the UK, or any other English-speaking country. English is a tool and an opportunity for everyone to join today’s global discourse on every topic you can imagine. Not just to listen to the conversation but to participate in it- expressing their ideas and opinions and sharing their brilliance with the world. We don’t teach Algerians how to be American; we teach them how to understand English as a language, as Americans use it, and then use it to express and share their own culture. Speaking English is an advantage that can benefit others; at least for now. Who knows? Maybe in the future Chinese will be the new international language. I hope it will be Arabic though! ;)

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Friday in Algeria

On Friday afternoons, after congregational prayers at the mosque, residents of Algiers usually head to a fir tree forest called Bouchaoui.

At Bouchaoui, you can ride your bike, take a jog, play soccer, or just sit back and relax.
 
For a small fee, you can ride horses,…

sip traditional Saharan mint tea, and…

listen to young people drum in the center of the park.

 

It’s really a joy to see families in the park together.  Some end their day with a little fast food;…

like this plate of French fries from a local pizzeria.

 

And, of course, no day would be complete without a packed bus ride home.  ;)

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